Arms Truncated Henin Form

With Pennsic XXX approaching, I decided that I wanted to make some more spiffy field garb. I already had a couple of field houppelandes, and most of my field garb is sideless surcoats and cotehardies, so I thought it would be nice to make some Burgundian gowns. But that's where I got stumped, because a Burgundian just isn't a Burgundian without a henin, and I wasn't going to bring my full steeple henin to the war. It just takes up too much space, and the humidity isn't kind to the buckram form.

Then I thought, why not make a truncated henin form? It wouldn't take up as much space, and I could make it out of something more resistant to moisture.

Then other projects got ahead of this one, so it wound being delayed for a while. But this actually turned out to be a good thing, as it gave me more time to think about how I wanted to make the form. One day, I suddenly realized that I knew how to make the form collapsible.

Sleeve I started by making a fabric sleeve the size and shape of the form I would need. Here it's shown already turned, with the bottom edge left open.
Stabilizer Next I took a piece of Sulky Totally Stable, marked it with stitching lines, and fused it to my sleeve. In addition to making it easy to transfer the stitching lines to the sleeve, the Totally Stable also helped to prevent any distortion as I stitched across the bias. By the way, this was my first time using Totally Stable, and I have to say that it is fantastic stuff.
Stitched To prevent creep between the layers of the sleeve, I sewed some rows of basting stitches horizontally across the sleeve. Then I stitched along the marked lines.
Channels With the basting removed and the Totally Stable torn away, I now had many tiny channels sewn into my sleeve.
Plastic Next I cut pieces of quilting template plastic and inserted them into the sleeves.
Bound I tied off and hid the thread ends at the top edge of the form, and bound the lower edge with a piece of bias. I also inserted a small amount of padding into the bias as I bound the edge. This was to prevent the edges of the plastic from cutting into the binding, or my forehead.
Form After slipstitching the edges together, the completed form stands upright.
Form on Wigstand Here it is on a wigstand, showing approximately how it will look when worn.
Folded Form And here's the best part - it folds up!

© 2001 Jessica I. Clark
Permission to print a copy for your own use freely given. Please contact me for permission to reprint or distribute.
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